Scottish Winter Triple Eight

 To climb 8 grade VIII Scottish Winter routes on 8 different mountain crags in one season.

8, VIII, 8. Simple. This was the goal I set myself for the 2020-21 Scottish winter climbing season.

Setting out on this project, it felt huge and intimidating. I was nervous to tell anyone because that would make it real. I was apprehensive, was it too much? Too unrealistic? Before this season I had only climbed three grade VIII routes (I kept that fairly quiet) it felt like a huge step up. It gave me a clearly defined goal, which is something I have never given myself whilst winter climbing before.

The project was much more than just about the numbers, they just set the framework, they gave it some structure and something that people can relate to and quantify. I was keen to explore new places, spend time learning the intricacies of the different climbing styles and the complexities of predicting conditions in different areas of the country. To me that is such a big aspect of Scottish Winter climbing, and I love it!

I was quite keen to get the ball rolling, start the season on a high...

Ben Nevis mixed.

Early season mixed conditions in Coire na Ciste on Ben Nevis were good, teaming up with Greg and Hamish we made the second ascent of Curly’s Arete. This route takes a delicate line near the left arete of the Sioux Wall face for three pitches. A great route to kick off the project.

Curly's Arete, VIII 8. 2nd Ascent.

📸: Greg Boswell

Magical North West.

After a brief thaw, another storm rolled through, I was very keen to visit Hayfork Gully Wall on An Teallach, from my research I had learned of its potential as an early season mixed venue, at 900m and facing NNW.

Tim was psyched on the idea, and Marc joined us to take some photos. 

We walked in by the light of a full moon, the coire glistened before us, white cliffs towering. Breathtaking. The North West of Scotland feeling as remote and wild as it should.

Picking the most wintery looking line and following our noses. We started up an existing route, Silver Fox, thin technical and bold climbing. Then breaking right to climb new terrain; steep corners and technical slabby grooves to the summit.

A new winter route on An Teallach. What a mountain!

The Flying Fox, VIII 8.

An Teallach

📸: Marc Langley

Beinn Eighe’s Best.

The following day still on a high from the success on An Teallach but with tired legs we walked up and over Beinn Eighe to have at look at the high level eastern cliffs, Far East Wall was a bit black, but the right hand end of Eastern Ramparts was wintry white. A complex little bit of cliff with lots of corners, grooves, and blocky roofs, we picked a wintry looking line and went for it.

I start up the second pitch, steep pulls commit me to the groove, a roof looming above, I dare not look up yet. Gear arranged, I move, the smooth and icey wide crack rejects my axes, placements slide, finally something sticks, an unusual solution unlocks the sequence. Body tension, balance, crampon mono points on sloping edges, millimeters of steel on quartzite, calfs burn, the crack is steep, the wall pushes me back. Strenuous to place gear, a breath to relax, the wind whips, I move. The wide crack switches from horizontal to vertical, awkward now for a few moves. The upper cracks are more accommodating, thin for good pick placements, steep to keep you thinking, reassuring gear helps the flow.

Never Never Land, VIII 8.

📸: Tim Miller

 

During December the mixed climbing high up Ben Nevis was in superb condition. I climbed a couple of ‘bonus’ routes - they don’t count for the project because I had already climbed Curlys Arete, but were superb fun. Knuckleduster Direct with Matt and Apache with Hamish.

Pulling through the roof on the crux pitch of Knuckleduster Direct, VIII 9.

📸: Matt Glenn

Consecutive days.

After climbing Knuckleduster Direct on Ben Nevis. I made the late night drive across the country, with the heaters on full blast to try and dry my kit. I had arranged to meet Guy in the northern Cairngorms for some climbing the next day.

A lot of snow made for a slow approach into Coire an t’Sneachda, but the morning weather was sublime, psych was high. Chilly toes in damp boots and gloves stuffed down my jacket to try and dry the last of the moisture.

We climbed the short test-piece of Omerta - really great technical climbing. Thin hooks and fiddly gear. The slanting crack forces superb movements, crossovers and axe matches. Feet pushed out right onto the wall, crampon points balance on granite ripples. It's all there, only just, absorbing climbing.

I spent quite a while on the second (crux) pitch, finding those thin hooks and clearing a couple of cm of rime ice off to uncover the granite ripples, all whilst digging for ok gear to make it safe. Into the flow, keeping it steady.

Oh yeah, and the grade, kudos to Moran and MacPherson for the FA, strong team. We thought IX 9 for the conditions on the day.

Omerta, IX 9.

Coire an t'Sneachda.

📸: Guy Robertson

The high cliffs of Glencoe.

Teaming up with Greg and Hamish again we ventured up to Church Door Buttress on Bidean nam Bian. With some ideas up our sleeves but an open mind to try whatever looked best. The crag was in superb winter nick. After a couple of false starts leading to dead ends we eventually found a way through some steep ground near the right end of the crag. Linking tapered grooves, corners and roofs for two pitches to create New Age Raiders.

This delivered everything I hoped the Winter Triple Eight project would; a new crag, a new approach and descent (in the dark), a different rock type and therefore style of climbing, a cool first ascent of a hard new route, and a great day out with good company! Cannot complain!

New Age Raiders, IX 9.

Church Door Buttress, Bidean Nam Bian.

📸: Hamish Frost

 

A day of learning and being humbled - aborted attempts in Coire an Lochain. A 'did not start' on an icy looking Happy Tyroleans and then backed off a very hoared up Pic n Mix, the bitterly cold wind made it all feel a bit desperate. Even with this unfruitful day I almost could not believe I was more than halfway through the project before the end of 2020. However I was well aware that the complexity of the project would only increase with its progression, by the nature of it - as you tick off the venues you are left with fewer to choose from! 

About to back off Pic 'n' Mix.

Coire an Lochain.

📸: Jamie Skelton

Sublime sunrise.

I had been keen to get back to Mainreachan Buttress on Fuar Tholl for a few years. It is a well hidden cliff, and a real mixed climbing gem - blocky, turfy Torridonian sandstone, NW facing with a superb outlook and a real remote feeling to it. Tim was easily convinced as he had also had a previous visit with a burning desire to return.

The approach is long, but snow conditions were favourable, with a stunning sunrise to distract our minds from the effort. We had our sights set on Sherlock which follows the line of the summer HVS (with a direct start) up the highest part of the crag. It is quite long (200m) and sustained at the grade, with 4 hard pitches. The steepness was deceptive, I kept looking up and thinking 'this next bit doesn't look too bad, the angle is easing' then wondering why I was still hanging off my axes! This turned out to be the second ascent of the route.

Tim approaching Mainreachan Buttress.

 

When it all aligns.

A bonus grade VIII on Beinn Eighe and a phenomenal day out. The conditions were superb, the skies were blue and not a breath of wind.

The long crux pitch of Hydroponicum was delicate, balancey, thin, and some of the gear was hard won. Not the typical Beinn Eighe style. I felt quite mentally drained by the end of the pitch, it took me a while to unlock and felt really involved. The top pitch was back to the typical quartzite - steep, positive, properly out there feeling exposure.

Hydroponicum, VIII 8.

Far East Wall, Beinn Eighe

📸: Andy MacKinnon

 

Skye mixed.

An aborted (second) attempt to make the FWA of Mongoose Direct, whilst walking into Coire Lagan we decided it wasn’t going to be in nick. We changed tack and walked up the Great Stone Shoot, finding some winter very high up. Lightly rimed rock, but very verglassed cracks made for tricky gear. We climbed an obvious steep groove and it’s continuation cracks on the Sgurr Alasdair side of the gully.

I initially gave it a split grade of VII/VIII, because I couldn't decide, it felt fairly hard but was quite a short route, with only one hard pitch. Maybe on reflection it would be VII 8, so I haven’t counted it as one of the project routes.

Who We Are, VII 8.

Sgurr Alasdair, Skye.

📸: Hamish Frost

Playing with Giants.

The Godfather on Beinn Bhan was definitely a highlight of the season (and the project) and will live long in the memory. A route that needs little introduction to the Scottish Winter aficionado. It is the epitome of Scottish mixed climbing. A big steep cliff, impressive line, and remote setting.

The photo is of me setting off on the long and wandering second pitch, this one felt quite questy that’s for sure. 

The Godfather, VIII 8.

Coire nan Fhamair, Beinn Bhan.

📸: Jamie Skelton

 

The norries deliver!

With the big thaw at the end of February, I almost thought it wasn't going to happen, was the Winter Triple Eight going to fall one route short, after such a good start!?

I had been watching the forecast closely and saw the temperature drop, with some snow being blown in on a cold North Easterly I thought it could be the last chance. One of the few possible venues left - Coire an Lochain, typically an early season mixed venue, it rimes up quickly. Late in the season It gave some unique conditions - lightly rimed up rock and dry cracks on the first pitch and then thin ice on the second. A very cool combination.

Happy Tyroleans, VIII 9.

Coire an Lochain.

📸: Jamie Skelton

This season I climbed 11 routes grade VIII or harder, this is far beyond what I believed possible back in November 2020. It was great to have that focus running through the whole season, it encouraged the exploration of new venues and gave scope for getting into the finer details of predicting conditions. The complexity of the challenge continued to reveal itself throughout.

I called it 'my' project, but it was so much about the people and the days I shared with them. Impossible without the strong and psyched group of partners. Thanks to you all for being part of it and enjoying the suffering for the strange addictive game of Scottish Winter climbing. Greg Boswell, Hamish Frost, Tim Miller, Matt Glenn, Guy Robertson, Andy MacKinnon, and Jamie Skelton.

Here’s to the next overly ambitious challenge!

America. Indian Creek.

Indian Creek, mostly.

The following may have been written whilst listening to Fleetwood Mac - Rumours and probably three glasses of complementary BA sauvignon blanc down. Don't blame me if it's sub par. 

"I can't get enough" 
"one thing I think you should know, I ain't gonna miss you when you go." 

Restless. I need to move. I cannot sit still. I vacate my seat, again, walk down the aisle, to the window at the back. I look out over the sea and land. I recognise the shapes, The Isle of Arran and The Mull of Kintyre. Goodbye Scotland. For now. Soon all is blue, and bright, flying west the sun never sets.

I booked the hire car, I thought I'd treat us to a 5-door something, a Ford Focus, excellent, a known quantity. After 15 hours of travel I was in no mood for the hire car lady to try and sandbag us with a 3-door-pocket-go-kart Cheverlet Spark. Eventually we lucked out with a mini 4x4, a Ford Eco sport something, Titanium, buzz word. The 4 wheel drive was handy for some of the tracks to the crags, wouldn't want to have to walk too far with a heavy bag now, I'll save that for Scottish Winter. Anyway I digress. The rest of the car was trying to be too clever for its own good with a beep, buzz or light for every 'warning' and a toot of the horn to confirm you've locked it. Shut up. Automatics are also crap, this Ford had a worse MPG than the Model T, its 100 year old predecessor. Nothing like a bit of progress ey?

Trying to open the boot of the all too clever Ecosport

"I just want you to feel fine."

Cleverly on the run-up to the trip I went OTB on my mountain bike, used my face as a brake and hurt my hand. Something like a boxer's fracture, but probably not broken? Who knows, I didn’t get it x-rayed. One sore, bruised and swollen hand, great, perfect a week before a crack climbing trip!! I took it easy for the first few days, but easy wasn’t enough. Day 2 and it felt like my hand exploded whilst top roping a cupped hands corner crack. Great. Gutted. It even hurt to untie my knot afterwards. Frustrating, honestly so gutted. Anyway, a week off and almost 100 ibuprofen during the rest of the trip and I did manage to climb some things… Luckily it is a stunning place to just be.

Not the worst place in the world to be on belay duty. Long Canyon, near Moab.

Once I did get climbing again...

We learned quickly that the cracks were always wider than they appeared from the ground. Unless it's a finger splitter then you'll be campusing on single-knuckle-deep desperate tips, it doesn't hurt the skin, just the bones scream instead. And the next day too. Add a high pain tolerance and 20 ibuprofen to the essential gear list.

100' of thin hands is about 95' too far, thankfully this realisation came whilst embracing the ever popular top rope. Very un-british, very wise Creek Freak tactic. I did not TRonsight.

Although laybacking (or should I say liebacking) is hard, pumpy and scary on lead, it feels like cheating on TR. You'll maybe figure out the moves but not the gear, all while becoming weak in the mind. And not getting any better at ring locks. 

Indian Creek from Scarface Wall.

Did I project anything? What? No. F Red Pointing. When there are 1000 other quality routes you could go and fall off. The most burns I have something was two on TR, first one I fell off on the off fingers splitter crux (0.75s). The next go I laybacked past it, cursing at myself. You're not going to learn anything by laybacking past the ring lock section. Enough of that. 

"now you tell me that I'm crazy, it's nothing that I don't know." 

Don't get too caught up with the cliff. Take the blinkers off, turn around and look at the stunning scenery.  

When it got cold enough for my water bottle to have frozen solid a few nights in a row, I decided that was enough bivvying and pitched my tent for the first time in a couple of weeks. Cold and sunny during the day (primo) and very cold and starry overnight. 
It was weird waking up in a tent, looking up and not seeing the stars, like someone has switched them off. Bivvying I would watch the crescent moon chase Orion across the night sky, feel the gentle cool breeze on my face. All that sounds very idyllic but with the breeze came the ubiquitous desert sand. I woke up one night and it felt like my eyes were full of it. Breakfast the next morning had a bit of a grittiness to it. 

Desert slick rock bivvy, idyllic, windy, sandy, starry.

October 31st. Halloween. We found ourselves at Arches National Park. Dressed as two trail runners we set off and bagged a whole load of arches, a desert tower and a good few km's of quality sandy/rocky trails. Spotted a racoon that turned out to be a red panda, of course, that classic onesie. How could we be so naive.

Dressed as trail runners, running trails in Arches NP.

Maybe October would have been warmer, and with longer days, but statistically the wettest month and I heard this year it just rained a lot. It only rained for 5 minutes one night this trip (not bad for Nov!). I pretended desperately that it wasn't happening as I lay there in my sleeping bag getting soaked and cold wondering where the stars had gone. The wind blew unrelentingly that night so the rain passed the stars returned and I shivered my way back to sleep. We moved camp spots the next night. 

So November obviously is the time to be in the Creek, I mean even Ondra and his crew were there. All the bells, whistles, photographers and a F'ing drone. I'm sure the footage of him climbing Air Swedin will be sweet but if I was American and had a gun I would have shot that thing out the sky. bbbzzzzzz. Aaaah. Fffff. "I love it when I step out of my comfort zone and onsight 5.13" definitely wins the best comment award on Ondras Instagram update.

La Sal Mountains, just.

"I'm just second hand news, Yeeeaaahh." 

My first coffee pot comes from a spark, my second coffee pot is a way to depart. 

The day is done, the sun has set, the long night has begun. The scavenged Utah Juniper wood burns steady on the campfire, a natural aromatic heat, a crackle, glow and light. Sweet potatoes are baked in the embers. Songs with half remembered verses are sung, stories exchanged and books read. The stars are gazed at in wonder. The moon is half full again now.

The sharp laughing bark and howl of the Coyote welcomes the first light of the day. It will be another hour before the sun's warm rays blink over the horizon. I turn in my sleeping bag with a groan. Not yet ready to rise.

There's no phone signal in Indian Creek so noticeboards are used for friends to communicate camping spots and climbing plans. The petroglyphs of Newspaper Rock are no longer in vogue. 

My body is worn out. Everything feels tired this morning. Sleep has been a restless affair the last few nights and my muscles know it.

Sorting out the Creek Rack, Supercrack Buttress in the background.

Here I find myself on that desert road, smooth and impossibly straight towards the horizon. A visita of rocks, geology at its finest. Tremendous shapes and curves catch the eye and draw you in. What's around the next corner, over the next rise. Inspiration to move. "it's all I wanna do." 

"Listen to the wind blow, watch the sunrise"

I probably watched the sun appear over the south-eastern horizon more days than not. I love the early morning peace.

"wake up in the morning see the sunrise"

The sun is rising into the blue sky, again, I could get used to this. Warming the air and bringing life into the day. Another bluebird day. The cool and dry wind, predominantly from the north west, chilly in the shade, perfect in the sun. Conditions on the rock could not be better. Running out of excuses. 

Tight hands and off fingers were climbed slightly more straight on and slightly less layback. Progress of a sort. The splitter, honestly, it’s probably what you come here for but after about 5 meters of the same, slightly awkward, increasingly painful moves, you’ve kinda done it (or you haven’t). The climbs I enjoyed the most were definitely the ones with a bit more variety, keep the interest, keep you problem solving. It’s not an experience to miss but not a style that I could solely climb, variety, diversity that’s what I prefer.

You know it's wide when you gear up and 'big blue' becomes small blue. 
The wider the crack the more tape required.  

Wide Rack.

One on, one off, that was the routine. Where 'on' means climbing and 'off' means running. Rest days were spent exploring the local national parks, running and 'hiking' some superb trails with 'awesome' views. Arches NP and Canyonlands, Needles District. If all National Parks are like these, wow, I want to visit them all! 

Balanced Rock, Arches NP.

"when the rain washes you clean, you will know"

I washed until the water ran clear in the shower tray. Red desert sand gets everywhere.  

My clothes are stained red, and smell of wood smoke, my hands have aged 20 years, my body is tired and hurts. However I have learned a lot, and had one of the best trips ever. Yeah I didn't climb hard, had a week off at the start, and generally punted around, alot. But that's not why I went to America, to Utah, to Indian Creek, it's about so much more than the climbing. 

North and South Six Shooter Towers from 2nd Meat Wall.

Thankfully I did not punt off any 5.9s, but by the same measure I also didn't fall on 5.13. Sweet. Maybe not a complete disaster from a climbing point of view, but not my best performance. 

Going from a month of camping, and sitting on the ground, cooking and eating stretched out on a tarp. To standing up to cook and then sitting on a seat at a table for dinner, well, it's the little things. That's luxury for me. That's enough. 

Eldorado Canyon, Eldo, OG Eldo. Like Pass of Ballater on steroids. But it's not granite, I know, hard-red-sandstone, might as well be granite. Not gold but quality. I’d go back if I was in the area. y’know.

Pass of Ballater...

Only in America; bubblegum flavoured toothpaste (I shit thee nay), sweet muffins at breakfast and drive through banks. 
RVs the size of a small flat with a land rover as a tow vehicle. 
Whilst lowering off from a route on a roadside crag I heard a terrible scraping noise from the road. I look round to see a caravan with a bicycle half fallen off the back, being dragged along the tarmac. Ooops. It will be a half bicycle soon.

Flatirons, the First Flatiron, flatrions? Nope, Flat-Iron. Snow and ice filled the water-runnel start to the first pitch to East Face Direct. We climbed friction slab to the right and were back on route at the first belay. From there, it was vague, just taking the most interesting line and the best rock - just go direct I guess? Joining North Arete just before the summit. Snow, wind, sunshine, great views, more wind, we kept moving. The exposed down climb went without issue, and quickly we were back in the shelter of the pines. Smells like Christmas, just a month to go. Trainers back on. Slip and slide the icey path back to our micro 4x4. The minions would approve of the morning jaunt. 

"well who am I to keep you down?" 

I would recommend Indian Creek to anyone. What a stunning place to climb. High concentration of quality routes on generally good rock. Heck, we've even got a must do-list for the return visit. 
Trips like this though, they always inspire many more adventures. Tick one place off the list and add five more. I'll definitely be back to 'merica. "You can go your own way." Go and figure it out for yourself, I'm not going to tell you where to camp, which routes to climb, or where to get food and water. It's part of the fun, make your own trip. Just go.

Whilst boarding the plane I helped a middle aged woman lift her cabin bag into the overhead locker with a smile on my face. She was distraught about being downgraded from 1st class to business. Oh how the other side live. We'll all get to London at the same time. I walk to the back of the plan to find I have lucked out and have 3 seats to myself. Legs stretched out, make-do first class.

Another flight north and it's 6 degrees and wet in Aberdeen, Scotland, I’m home. Bring on winter!

Snippets – Unfinished Stories and Anecdotes of Days Enjoyed.

The well stepped trail across the crusty snow was welcomed; the light from the moon and stars was tranquil, lighting the way I hardly needed my headtorch. The long drive after work from Aberdeen to Fort William was almost worth it already, and I wasn’t even at the hut yet, I hadn’t even swung an axe, but the freedom, the release from the city, the escape from the work routine. The walk gave time to think and ponder as I followed the steps of others fuelled by the fresh cool air, glancing up occasionally at the stars and the moon lighting up the north face of Ben Nevis. I could see tantalising white streaks down the steep cliff faces, I was scanning the cliff, searching for the route I had in mind. I knew that Uisdean and Doug had climbed Gemini on Carn Deag Buttress earlier that day and were still up at the hut, tomorrows forecast looked good. Gemini takes a series of steep walls and grooves joined by some easier angled ramps all smeared with ice and shouting out to be climbed. One of the many classics on this section of the cliff it is full of character and exposure with great views across to Carn Mor Dearg to the north and Lochaber to the west.

The morning of the 22nd of January, the hut is still quiet so I slept well and I’m up beat, in the coming weeks the hut fully booked until April –it will become quite a hubbub of activity. The sizeable bowl of porage with banana fuelled the day.

It was good to climb Gemini early season and before the UKC masses caught wind of the conditions, it seemed to become a bit of a trade route in the weeks that followed. The forecast for Friday was warm and windy so I raced back to Aberdeen and worked the Friday to save a precious days holiday for another day, my only regret was not taking the Wednesday off as well.

***

Mainreachan Buttress is a cliff that keeps its cards close to its chest. It doesn’t reveal itself until you turn the final corner then in front of you appears a steep crag of blocky rock and turfy ledges, prime mixed climbing territory. The buttress holds some classic mixed routes following the obvious lines up the faces of the cliff.

Mainline Connection VI 6 was in our sights, this steep line of corners and grooves was the whitest line on the cliff that day, it was warm; I was down to just a base layer for a lot of the approach. The climbing was fun, steep, and positive with the odd loose block to work around; these would definitely be frozen in-place in colder conditions. Thankfully the turf was solid, as it had been consistently cold for a few weeks now and the morning’s temperature rise hadn’t had any effect on the turfy ledges- essential to climbing the route. I climbed well, feeling confident on the steep positive mixed ground after climbing Shang-High VI 7 on Beinn Eighe a couple of weeks earlier.

***

Simon climbed down from the belay and across to reach the smooth sea washed and deadly-greasy ledges which formed the first pitch, the traverse to the hanging belay at the base of the showpiece red wall. However today the wall was pink, conditions were good if a little chilly now the wall had lost the sun. Managing to avoid slipping and taking an unwelcome dip in the cold North Sea Simon reached the belay and commenced forming a web of gear to hang from. I followed the ropes down, across and round, slipping and sliding the whole way, not quite the warm up pitch I had in mind. Simon summed up the route nicely at this point as “a route of two contrasting pitches”, the showpiece main pitch which gives the route its name and grade still to come.

The superb pink wall of an unknown-to-me mixed rock, where all the features are upside down, provides undercuts with slopey feet on the bold initial traverse before the relief of a crack is reached, a line to follow, not that the climbing eases. Sustained technical moves up the vertical wall provide a sublime problem solving expedition. Thankfully the crack yields plentiful gear, almost too much – I had to stop myself placing wires as I was going to run out of extenders before reaching the granite roofs that cap the wall. Reaching the good undercuts at back of these roofs, I looked down with a Cheshire cat smile, the trail of chalk marking my path up the face, the sea rolling against the base of the wall 35 meters below, it looked as amazing as it felt. Pulling through the roofs and into the finishing chimney was a sting in the tail which was a bit more of a thrutch than I was expecting, and quite a contrast to the rest of the pitch. I was truly elated topping out Cracks in Reality E5 6a, a truly outstanding climb, committing, and in a tremendous position, it definitely ranks up there with the best in the country. I am incredibly happy to climb it as it was just so much fun and completely absorbing climbing which just kept coming.

I got totally hooked on The Red Hole at South Cove for a few months before the birds started nesting, it is an amazing and committing arena to climb and it’s only 5 minutes from Aberdeen! The Red Hole hosts a great number of three and four star classics, all guaranteeing exposure and adventure – it’s easy to see how I was hooked.

***

One mingin' day I abbed in to have a look, 'nutting-in' as I went to keep myself close enough to the rock round the roofs at the top of the crag. I cleaned the corner crack, an old rotten peg, a wee loose block and some bits of dirt. I had a look at some holds but the rock was red, the red light, the signal that the cliff is unclimable. My thoughts then; it looks like there's enough holds, sparse for the feet but possibly just enough. Can I do it? How hard is it? I knew there must be some 6b climbing in there, which would feel hard coming straight out of the hardest moves of the Procrastination corner. The crack offered good small gear, but getting in a position to place it could be strenuous. Might it be E6? That feels scary, I'd probably fall off E6.

One week of dreaming about the climbing, imagining the moves and waiting for the right conditions and I was back…

I desperately wanted to re-climb the first pitch of Procrastination, incredible climbing in a committing position, it may be a 'short' pitch (probably just 15m) but it fairly packs it in- it's hard –proper 6b. Sadly the crack, the first crux, was literally dripping! I now appreciate the good conditions we had last time, how things can change in a week and a half! Alas it was not to be- what followed was a heck of a lot of trad-faff. Abseiling in, to swing across and set up a hanging belay above the sea and at the base of the Procrastination corner, sorting out the ropes, getting Darren clipped into the belay and myself off and finally it was time to climb!

Procrastination climbs the big arching corner where the pink wall meets the granite overlaps, an obvious line. But is it? Procrastination -the old aid route- has a hard to interpret description but as far as I can decipher it follows the corner the whole way. Procrastination – the modern classic free route- follows the corner until three-quarters of the way up then breaks right onto a granite slab for a breather before pulling spectacularly through the right hand side of a roof. But what about that top quarter of the corner line? The true old aid line, the steepest section of the corner unclimbed – or at least not climbed free. It called out to me.

I moved away from Darren on the hanging belay, moving up the steepening corner, the climbing was superb and the crack in the corner offered up plentiful protection. I climbed past the exit right onto the slab that Procrastination follows and kept pulling up the ever steepening corner. I managed to climb this new pitch first go, giving it E5 6b, and naming it Procyon – forming a link between the ‘Pros’ and the ‘Space’ naming convention on the wall. The moves were as good as I expected, the footholds were as small as I thought, it was technical but well protected and just damn good fun!

I was really keen to re-climb the first pitch of Procrastination as it would give a perfect link into the big corner pitch of Procyon to give two tremendous, top-end, E5 6b pitches taking you from the base of the crag all the way to the top – next time, when I come back to try Lost in Space E6 6b.

The Red Hole just keeps giving, and I’ve got more to give back too.

On a bit of a high I decided to ride the wave of psyche and managed to comfortably flash the tricky Teetering on the Brink of Madness E5 6b, a route with a name like that and a reputation to match had to be good, and it was! A great end to another great day on the Aberdeen sea cliffs.

***

‘Climb the niched crack-line to a ledge.’ It was obvious, definitely the most obvious line up the steep front face of Lochan Dubh Crag. I don’t know if it does – but I had created, in my head, quite a reputation for the route. Major Domo E6 6b – sustained, not bold, endurance is key, I was feeling fit, and more importantly psyched. My head was in the right place, willing to ‘give it a go’, confident to give it a good go. Move-by-move it is exquisite, the positions forced by the rock, the edges, pods, slopers and the crack, the raison d’etre, but it also provided ample protection. I enjoyed every moment, every movement, it was perfect, and conditions were great. It all went smoothly, I read the crux sequence and executed it first go, strenuous but I committed to it - no climbing up and down here. A foot slip with one hand on the finishing ledge brought a rush of adrenaline and a shout of “NO…” I held on, replaced my foot and pulled over, another shout, this time of euphoria, elation, I was psyched. My first E6 onsight, a goal that I had set myself for the year, it was the first day of May, what would the rest of the year bring?

***

'You’ll be living in that van one day.'

'Maybe, maybe one day, at least for a little while…'

***

'Like a delicate dance' were the words I shared as I drifted rightwards across the granite slab, pressing toes precisely on the granite edges, trusting the friction. The contrast in moves from the burly sequence departing the belay and moving up to the first gear was refreshing, these moves were much more easily enjoyed, time could be taken to feel the texture of the cairngorm granite, time could be taken to unlock the sequence and move efficiently. The sanctuary of a good hold on the arête and an old peg allowed for the world of granite overlaps that had just come into view above me to be absorbed and assessed. A maze of grooves, slabs and overlaps typifies the strata of the Central Gully Wall of the mighty Creagan Dubh Loch. I moved right along the final moves of the crux pitch of The Naked Ape E5 6b to a very ‘Dubh Loch’ style move onto the belay ledge where the traverse meets the counter diagonal of a large groove which points the direction for the start of the 3^rd pitch.

***

Like every morning we approached with open minds, open to the options ahead, we would climb anything that’s dry they’re all good. This morning however there was an extra spring in our steps, the crag was in view, glowing in the morning sun dominating the vista above the calm Dubh Loch, not looking so Dubh this morning. We filled our water bottles, and took an extra drink from the stream flowing from the loch this morning, we were going to need it. It was probably 25 degrees and humid, the trousers were rolled up with zip vents open, my t-shirt was saturated. I was making good use of my ‘Verdon hat’ a very uncool baseball cap with a neck shade, a very practical hat for a Scottish person mid-summer in the South of France, or in this case Costa Del Dubh Loch. I didn’t anticipate it being much use after our Europe trip last summer, I was happily being proven wrong.

We arrived at the base of Central Gully, the choice was obvious; the mega-classic Voyage of the Beagle E5 6a had to be climbed. This tremendous voyage links obvious left trending grooves and slabs to join the common top pitch of The Naked Ape. An unforgettable journey through some incredible rock architecture of the grandest scale available in Britain.

***

I am reading to become more articulate, writing to become more eloquent, and striving to be more epigrammatic. Writing succinctly, providing just enough detail to draw the reader in, but not bore them, allowing them to be absorbed in the scenario, and capturing their imagination so they carry on reading -a good story teller is blessed with these traits. These are the skills I wish to learn, to develop, and to share with others.

The pile of books I have yet to read is motivating, I am eager to hear of stories, of epics, of adventures, I am keen to learn and to be absorbed in the tales. I am almost finished reading the book I’ve been on since February, (about time too!) which means the difficult choice of what to read next is soon to be tackled… I’ll let you know what I choose.

***

'A long way to walk for not much climbing.' We had just been rained off Cir Mhor, a tremendous pyramidal peak of fine granite situated proudly at the end of Glen Rosa. I had climbed one pitch, one very good pitch, but still only one pitch before the clouds came in, the wind picked up and the rock was slippery wet. I abseiled off. We hid under a boulder and ate our sandwiches, a long way to walk for a rainy picnic. I remembered a picture I had seen of a boulder problem below the crag, we stopped off on the descent, the climb proved tricky. A slopey lip traverse with smeary feet and a committing move to a thankfully good jug for the highball topout. A great problem in a stunning location. Dayni waited patiently entertaining herself by capturing the moment on camera, and making friends with a happy caterpillar.

We knew the weather was due to close-in this afternoon so had made an early start, enjoying the walk along the glen that morning in the sun with just shorts and t-shirt on, and of course making use of my Verdon Hat. Now it was a very different place with the rain showers gaining in frequency and duration, the goretex jackets and waterproof skin were well tested on the return to the carpark some 7km away. Worth every step of the long walk to be in the mountains and enjoy those moments in good company. 

***

The 06:00am alarm sounds; I’m back to the routine. I’m up, dressed and out the door. I set off pedalling, I’ve left the bike in a gear too high, I struggle to get the wheels turning up the street with cold legs. The angle eases, and I get the legs spinning, they soon warm up, or go numb. 20 minutes of cars, busses, traffic lights and cycle paths and I arrive at work. It’s not time to work yet though; the gym is calling. Sometimes I get up to half an hour of theraband, squats, sit ups and press ups before 10 minutes of whole body stretching, all now commonly and fashionably called antagonistic exercises. I’ve been doing these regularly for over 6 months now, it’s the routine. Have I seen a difference? – Definitely. There’s a certain efficiency in routine. Efficiency makes me happy, especially when ‘there aren’t enough hours in the day.’

***

The red and yellow hot air balloon flickered in and out of focus, floating just above the horizon at the end of the long straight tarmacked road through the red desert. Flickering, blurring then coming back into focus again, as if the heat of the sun was causing the air to haze. The balloon moved, quickly with a jolt, now in line with my left eye and continued with its routine of blurring, and flickering around before coming back into focus. I’d seem this image before, many times over the years, it was two years since last time the appointment letter stated, although I remember it from my childhood. Always the same red and yellow hot air balloon, always at the end of the desert road with the double yellow lines. The image always moving and blurring, then coming into focus.

It was like a subliminal message, an image my subconscious would remember forever, I’ve seen this image periodically for most of my life. One day I would wake up staring down the long straight desert road. I’d feel the heat of the sun high in the sky radiating from the black tarmac. I’d rub my eyes and sit up wondering where I could be, glancing around, looking down the road and see the red and yellow hot air balloon blurred by the heat from the sun, flicking back and forth, out-and-in to focus.

One day I’ll spend some time on the desert road, the road to the unknown, the road of discovery, and of course adventure. But for now the red and yellow hot air balloon flicks out of focus, then disappears forever, or at least until next time I'm staring down the keratometer.

***

Thanks to all those who have contributed or taken photos, Simon, Darren, Uisdean, Paul and Dayni.

And of course thanks to all those I have had the pleasure of enjoying these adventures with, until the next one, cheers!