To climb 8 grade VIII Scottish Winter routes on 8 different mountain crags in one season.
8, VIII, 8. Simple. This was the goal I set myself for the 2020-21 Scottish winter climbing season.
Setting out on this project, it felt huge and intimidating. I was nervous to tell anyone because that would make it real. I was apprehensive, was it too much? Too unrealistic? Before this season I had only climbed three grade VIII routes (I kept that fairly quiet) it felt like a huge step up. It gave me a clearly defined goal, which is something I have never given myself whilst winter climbing before.
The project was much more than just about the numbers, they just set the framework, they gave it some structure and something that people can relate to and quantify. I was keen to explore new places, spend time learning the intricacies of the different climbing styles and the complexities of predicting conditions in different areas of the country. To me that is such a big aspect of Scottish Winter climbing, and I love it!
I was quite keen to get the ball rolling, start the season on a high...
Ben Nevis mixed.
Early season mixed conditions in Coire na Ciste on Ben Nevis were good, teaming up with Greg and Hamish we made the second ascent of Curly’s Arete. This route takes a delicate line near the left arete of the Sioux Wall face for three pitches. A great route to kick off the project.
Curly's Arete, VIII 8. 2nd Ascent.
📸: Greg Boswell
Magical North West.
After a brief thaw, another storm rolled through, I was very keen to visit Hayfork Gully Wall on An Teallach, from my research I had learned of its potential as an early season mixed venue, at 900m and facing NNW.
Tim was psyched on the idea, and Marc joined us to take some photos.
We walked in by the light of a full moon, the coire glistened before us, white cliffs towering. Breathtaking. The North West of Scotland feeling as remote and wild as it should.
Picking the most wintery looking line and following our noses. We started up an existing route, Silver Fox, thin technical and bold climbing. Then breaking right to climb new terrain; steep corners and technical slabby grooves to the summit.
A new winter route on An Teallach. What a mountain!
The Flying Fox, VIII 8.
An Teallach
📸: Marc Langley
Beinn Eighe’s Best.
The following day still on a high from the success on An Teallach but with tired legs we walked up and over Beinn Eighe to have at look at the high level eastern cliffs, Far East Wall was a bit black, but the right hand end of Eastern Ramparts was wintry white. A complex little bit of cliff with lots of corners, grooves, and blocky roofs, we picked a wintry looking line and went for it.
I start up the second pitch, steep pulls commit me to the groove, a roof looming above, I dare not look up yet. Gear arranged, I move, the smooth and icey wide crack rejects my axes, placements slide, finally something sticks, an unusual solution unlocks the sequence. Body tension, balance, crampon mono points on sloping edges, millimeters of steel on quartzite, calfs burn, the crack is steep, the wall pushes me back. Strenuous to place gear, a breath to relax, the wind whips, I move. The wide crack switches from horizontal to vertical, awkward now for a few moves. The upper cracks are more accommodating, thin for good pick placements, steep to keep you thinking, reassuring gear helps the flow.
During December the mixed climbing high up Ben Nevis was in superb condition. I climbed a couple of ‘bonus’ routes - they don’t count for the project because I had already climbed Curlys Arete, but were superb fun. Knuckleduster Direct with Matt and Apache with Hamish.
Pulling through the roof on the crux pitch of Knuckleduster Direct, VIII 9.
📸: Matt Glenn
Consecutive days.
After climbing Knuckleduster Direct on Ben Nevis. I made the late night drive across the country, with the heaters on full blast to try and dry my kit. I had arranged to meet Guy in the northern Cairngorms for some climbing the next day.
A lot of snow made for a slow approach into Coire an t’Sneachda, but the morning weather was sublime, psych was high. Chilly toes in damp boots and gloves stuffed down my jacket to try and dry the last of the moisture.
We climbed the short test-piece of Omerta - really great technical climbing. Thin hooks and fiddly gear. The slanting crack forces superb movements, crossovers and axe matches. Feet pushed out right onto the wall, crampon points balance on granite ripples. It's all there, only just, absorbing climbing.
I spent quite a while on the second (crux) pitch, finding those thin hooks and clearing a couple of cm of rime ice off to uncover the granite ripples, all whilst digging for ok gear to make it safe. Into the flow, keeping it steady.
Oh yeah, and the grade, kudos to Moran and MacPherson for the FA, strong team. We thought IX 9 for the conditions on the day.
📸: Guy Robertson
The high cliffs of Glencoe.
Teaming up with Greg and Hamish again we ventured up to Church Door Buttress on Bidean nam Bian. With some ideas up our sleeves but an open mind to try whatever looked best. The crag was in superb winter nick. After a couple of false starts leading to dead ends we eventually found a way through some steep ground near the right end of the crag. Linking tapered grooves, corners and roofs for two pitches to create New Age Raiders.
This delivered everything I hoped the Winter Triple Eight project would; a new crag, a new approach and descent (in the dark), a different rock type and therefore style of climbing, a cool first ascent of a hard new route, and a great day out with good company! Cannot complain!
📸: Hamish Frost
A day of learning and being humbled - aborted attempts in Coire an Lochain. A 'did not start' on an icy looking Happy Tyroleans and then backed off a very hoared up Pic n Mix, the bitterly cold wind made it all feel a bit desperate. Even with this unfruitful day I almost could not believe I was more than halfway through the project before the end of 2020. However I was well aware that the complexity of the project would only increase with its progression, by the nature of it - as you tick off the venues you are left with fewer to choose from!
About to back off Pic 'n' Mix.
Coire an Lochain.
📸: Jamie Skelton
Sublime sunrise.
I had been keen to get back to Mainreachan Buttress on Fuar Tholl for a few years. It is a well hidden cliff, and a real mixed climbing gem - blocky, turfy Torridonian sandstone, NW facing with a superb outlook and a real remote feeling to it. Tim was easily convinced as he had also had a previous visit with a burning desire to return.
The approach is long, but snow conditions were favourable, with a stunning sunrise to distract our minds from the effort. We had our sights set on Sherlock which follows the line of the summer HVS (with a direct start) up the highest part of the crag. It is quite long (200m) and sustained at the grade, with 4 hard pitches. The steepness was deceptive, I kept looking up and thinking 'this next bit doesn't look too bad, the angle is easing' then wondering why I was still hanging off my axes! This turned out to be the second ascent of the route.
Tim approaching Mainreachan Buttress.
When it all aligns.
A bonus grade VIII on Beinn Eighe and a phenomenal day out. The conditions were superb, the skies were blue and not a breath of wind.
The long crux pitch of Hydroponicum was delicate, balancey, thin, and some of the gear was hard won. Not the typical Beinn Eighe style. I felt quite mentally drained by the end of the pitch, it took me a while to unlock and felt really involved. The top pitch was back to the typical quartzite - steep, positive, properly out there feeling exposure.
📸: Andy MacKinnon
Skye mixed.
An aborted (second) attempt to make the FWA of Mongoose Direct, whilst walking into Coire Lagan we decided it wasn’t going to be in nick. We changed tack and walked up the Great Stone Shoot, finding some winter very high up. Lightly rimed rock, but very verglassed cracks made for tricky gear. We climbed an obvious steep groove and it’s continuation cracks on the Sgurr Alasdair side of the gully.
I initially gave it a split grade of VII/VIII, because I couldn't decide, it felt fairly hard but was quite a short route, with only one hard pitch. Maybe on reflection it would be VII 8, so I haven’t counted it as one of the project routes.
Who We Are, VII 8.
Sgurr Alasdair, Skye.
📸: Hamish Frost
Playing with Giants.
The Godfather on Beinn Bhan was definitely a highlight of the season (and the project) and will live long in the memory. A route that needs little introduction to the Scottish Winter aficionado. It is the epitome of Scottish mixed climbing. A big steep cliff, impressive line, and remote setting.
The photo is of me setting off on the long and wandering second pitch, this one felt quite questy that’s for sure.
📸: Jamie Skelton
The norries deliver!
With the big thaw at the end of February, I almost thought it wasn't going to happen, was the Winter Triple Eight going to fall one route short, after such a good start!?
I had been watching the forecast closely and saw the temperature drop, with some snow being blown in on a cold North Easterly I thought it could be the last chance. One of the few possible venues left - Coire an Lochain, typically an early season mixed venue, it rimes up quickly. Late in the season It gave some unique conditions - lightly rimed up rock and dry cracks on the first pitch and then thin ice on the second. A very cool combination.
📸: Jamie Skelton
This season I climbed 11 routes grade VIII or harder, this is far beyond what I believed possible back in November 2020. It was great to have that focus running through the whole season, it encouraged the exploration of new venues and gave scope for getting into the finer details of predicting conditions. The complexity of the challenge continued to reveal itself throughout.
I called it 'my' project, but it was so much about the people and the days I shared with them. Impossible without the strong and psyched group of partners. Thanks to you all for being part of it and enjoying the suffering for the strange addictive game of Scottish Winter climbing. Greg Boswell, Hamish Frost, Tim Miller, Matt Glenn, Guy Robertson, Andy MacKinnon, and Jamie Skelton.
Here’s to the next overly ambitious challenge!
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